Creality CR-10S Full Assembly To Print Guide


what’s up I’m Jonathan and welcome to
maker tales where I’m sharing my maker journey to help you go further in yours
so don’t forget to subscribe and hit that old Bell icon to never miss an
opportunity to keep making in this video we’re going to be unboxing assembling
and doing the first print on the CR 10s now that the CR 10 is out of the box
what your wanting to do is find the tool box inside of the tool box there’s going
to be many many things put them all off to the side cus right this minute we are
just interested in one bag that contains the snips for safety and security the CR
10 s comes with zip ties all over it now using your new snips cut all of these
off with the z-axis freed now take off the last of the packaging and let’s move
on to assembly before we continue along with this video remember to use the
instructions as things that may change in the future having said that my first
tip is to start with the T brackets unlike the instructions say because this
will make it much easier to align the T nuts
later on don’t be fooled by the name as in this bag contains the bolts that we
will need to fix the z-axis to the body later for now put those bolts to one
side and let’s get to know the T brackets there is a left one and a right
one the left one has the limit switch keep that in mind now prepare your work
area as things are going to get fiddly keep in mind when you’re lifting up the
frame not to put pressure on the Z screws wherever you place the frame back
down put it down like this once your work area is set
grab your T brackets you’re left in your right now remember the backside of the
printer has the motor on the back we’re gonna start on the left side but both of
these are pretty much the same now grab your bag of tools and get the allen keys
out you may want to get the very little allen key as that might come in handy
and what’s to come now say hello to the t-nuts
these things are a real pain as you need them to turn clockwise 90 degrees to
lock inside of the t bar put them horizontally slot them in and turn the
allen key to the right this may turn the nut and that’s it however if it doesn’t
jiggle about have a go use the small allen key see if that gets them to twist
in my case nothing was working in that case what you do is you take it off take
the t-nuts off and then put them in manually one by one to do it manually
you’re gonna need pliers while you’re trying to achieve here is to get a tea
nut at a 45 degree angle to then be able to do the last little twist with the
pliers now pliers aren’t always needed as you can see my second peanut was done
by hand now space your t nuts equally to fit the new T bracket onto
your newly fitted t nuts this part is crucial make sure that your t nuts are
still vertical inside of the t bar if they’re not vertical you’re going to
have to go back a step and repeat until this is done correctly tighten the bolts
are securely fastened but still movable do the exact same process on the other
side and now move the t brackets close to where the holes are where you’re
going to be attaching the gantry I’ve loosen the two top nuts of each T
bracket and place them horizontally to make it a lot easier to put the top
gantry on and making sure that they are horizontal inside of the T slot now with
the extruder facing you we are going to slowly but surely put the Z gantry on
top of the T brackets making sure that the T nuts enter the t slots in a
horizontal position this can be a bit tricky and fiddly but once done just
loosely tighten the bolts because we’re going to need a little bit of play for
the next part it’s now time to prepare the bolts to attach your Z gantry to the
base these are in that Miss named band I showed you earlier
from here carefully and still holding a printer move your CR 10 just slightly
off the table and slowly but surely move the top gantry till the holes aline
underneath and fix the bolts into the bottom once you’ve done this to both
sides you’re almost there just finish tightening up
of T bracket screws to a reasonable stiffness that’s it for the main
structural assembly now let’s tackle these wires thankfully creality have made
this really easy by labeling every single wire technically there’s only two
connections you need to worry about here which is the four pin stepper motor
connections and the three pin limit switch connectors
I would suggest following the instructions for this as they’ve made it
really simple to follow but in a nutshell you look at the cable see the
axis it’s correlated to then find where that motor is using the
instructions plug it into the motor plug it into the limit switch if there is a
limit switch and that’s it do that for all the motors and limit switches and
all that’s left is the extruder and the filament sensor which is this cable by
the way which you don’t have to plug in if you don’t want it quick tip keep in
mind where these cables are going to be placed in the future it might have to go
under the frame while we’re connecting all these wires we might as well connect
the Bowden tube just plug it in and make sure it’s secure by pulling this out you
may have noticed I haven’t told you how to install the racing stripes that’s
because I can’t deal with this and I’m all about the pure sleek goodness
finally we’re just left with two power cables one for the bed one for the head
follow the instructions you can’t even plug these in wrong
however one thing you can have very wrong is having the voltage input wrong
double-check this and double-check it again because you can fry your
motherboard once you know your voltage input is set
correctly get your power cable plug it in and turn this beast on I’m not
planning on going in too much detail with the menus but this screen here is
where you’ll be able to realize if anything is broken your thermostats
should show zero at the top and underneath that should show
temperature of what it is naturally in it is zero on the bottom and that means
that the thermostat for your bed or your head is broken I’ve kept the film on my
bed this entire time to protect it more than anything the first thing we need to do
now is hit auto home this will then let us move the axes to then be able
to remove the bed once the printer is home you’ll be able to move the axes
safely go into the move menus and move the z-axis using the one millimeter
setting upwards – then let you remove the bed
removing the bed is easy just move that axis and then remove the clips take
the bed off and take off the tape that’s underneath remove the film that’s on it
and here’s where the controversy starts I’m going to tell you not to put
anything on your bed the main thing most people are doing wrong here and why they
have bad adhesion is because they don’t completely clean their bed before use you may be tempted to use alcohol while
washing the bed don’t do this as it leaves a layer of hydrocarbons on the
surface which means that your adhesion will be really bad on top of that make
sure that your fingers never touch the glass once it’s being washed now your bed is almost ready to be
printed on it just needs to be leveled grab yourself a piece of paper 0.1
millimeters thick I’m using the instruction manual here go into the
menus and find auto bed leveling what your plan is here is to tighten and loosen
the bed controls underneath the bed to have the bed not to bite the paper but
just feel the smallest amount of friction each time you feel this hit
next we’ll go back into Auto leveling and hit next step until you’ve done it
to all the points now let’s load some filament the first step is to preheat
the printer that’s under settings PLA preheat then we’re going to put together
the spool holder while it’s heating up the spool holder is easy there’s two
screws this metal part this plastic bit twisted together put the spool on it
then feed the filament through the Bowden tube until it reaches the head at
this point weight to the PLA preheat gets up to
temperature the same as the other move settings go into one millimeter go to
the extruder and just give it a couple of millimetres to see that the filament
is running smoothly once you see this you know that the printer is working
beautifully and it’s now time to setup your first print we’re going to keep
this as quick and simple as possible I’m going to show you both cura and
simplify 3d to start the model will be printing is the 3d benchy as you’ll learn
the most from this print learn more about it on the website down in the
description now that you have your fiel let’s start with cura it’s as simple as
starting up the program telling it which printer you have and then editing the
settings to make it how you wish you want to print for PLA I like to use 210
for the first layer or 215 and then for the bed I like to use a temperature
between 60 and 70 depending on the ambient temperature once you’re done in
the prepare window head over to preview from here just save it onto the micro SD
and you’re done in simplified 3d it’s pretty much just the same tell it that
you are using our CR 10s and from there drop in the benchy change any settings
that you want in the processors so back to 210 and 70 or 60 to the bed and then
just save out the file now you truly are on the last leg all
you have to do is plug in the microSD move into the bottom menu to load up the
SD find your file and hit go from there just enjoy your print printer
once your print is printed the best practice is to hit cool down let it all
cool down plate / bed and all then take your plate off and
then use up the lovely included scraper to just slide it under the print it
should just pop right off and lo and behold you have now unbox setup and
done you’re first print there you guys have it that’s how to put together
a co 10s and how to get your first print out of it
and remember keep making a and let the quest continue

2 Replies to “Creality CR-10S Full Assembly To Print Guide”

  1. Very good video, especially liked the paint covered fingers 😉 For PLA I use a unheated base machine, though my old chisel isn't as smooth on it as your scraper!

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